Using 120 film in Highlander/J33 cameras

After reading about the alternatives for 40-series film that I described, some Highlander-owners evidently felt left out. One of them, John Pouncey, sent me a description of his way of using conventional 120 film in his model 80B Land camera. I've put together the following instructions based on his idea. [I haven't actually tried it myself yet, but John reports good results with his first attempt, and I can't see any good reason why it wouldn't work.]

Keep in mind that, as with the other "alternate film" techniques described on this site, this is really intended for the photographic hobbyist who merely wants to try to take a picture or two with his or her old camera rather than as a serious everyday solution to the problem of a non-existent film supply.

Also, since this technique uses conventional (non-instant) film, it will probably only be useful for those willing and able to process the film themselves.

If you think that the above statements still describe you, then read on!

Step 1:

You'll need an 80-series or J33 Polaroid camera (of course), a roll of your favorite film in 120 size, and an empty 120 film spool. [If you use 120 film on a regular basis, you probably already have a bunch of empty spools lying around. If you've never used 120 before, try asking at your local full-service camera store or professional photofinishing lab; my guess is that they'd likely be happy to give you one. If all else fails, you could use a wood dowel or pencil cut to size or something of that sort, or even a plastic spool from a roll of 30-series Polaroid film as originally used in your camera.] Incidently, the camera shown in these illustrations is a model 80A.

In addition, you will also need a photographic changing bag or darkroom in order to load (and advance) the film. (a closet or bathroom that can be made completely dark will also work fine)

Step 2:

Step 3:

Now, in total darkness (i.e. in your darkroom or using your changing bag), continue to feed the film onto the take-up spool until you feel the point where the start of the film emulsion is taped to the paper backing. With the end of the film at the point where it is just on the take-up spool, place the take-up spool in the well to the right of the film plane, and place the source spool in the film well at the left of the film plane. Keep as much tension between the two rolls as you can.

Step 4:

Now close the back of the camera, and your camera is loaded and ready for taking a picture! You can find a chart of shutter speeds/apertures for 80-series cameras on the miscellaneous data page.

After you take a picture, you'll have to go back to your darkroom (or changing bag) to advance the film. So, in total darkness open the back of the camera again. Lift the two spools straight out of the camera, wind the take-up spool towards the source roll, and then pull the fresh film from the source spool. You might want to wind a bit of extra film onto the take-up spool just to make sure you don't overlap the images on the roll (unless that's your intent). Depending on how accurate you are with advancing the film, you should expect to get between 5 and 8 shots on a roll of 120.

Notes:

• If you have a J33, naturally your film choices will be limited to films with a speed of around 3000 ASA unless you have the #330 Color Adapter to allow for the use of slower film.
• You might want to place a piece of black construction paper inside the outer back of the camera to help prevent light leaks when using the camera in daylight (when using the instant film this camera was designed for, the 'tail' of the film running through the back of the camera would have served this purpose).
• 120 film is slightly narrower than the film designed for your camera, so you may find that your images are slightly crooked and/or bleed into the frame numbers along the edge of the film.
• This procedure is intended only for cameras designed for 30-series Polaroid roll film. While it isn't really practical for the larger cameras designed for 40-series films, at least one vistor to this site has had some success doing exactly this (he constructed a film holder to keep the film in place).
• In addition, this procedure will not work with the 'Swinger'-style cameras even though the Type 20 film used in those models is similar in image format to the 30-series films. The reason is that the 'Swinger' cameras do not use a conventional pressure plate design-- you'd have to construct some sort of spring assembly that would keep the film pulled flat against the back of the camera.
• Those of you unfamiliar with 120 (or other traditional paper-backed film) may be confused as to what to do after exposing the film. Unlike 35mm or APS, this sort of film should not be 'rewound' back onto the original spool. Once you reach the end of the film stock, just continue winding the entire backing paper trailer onto the take-up spool. Once you've done that (you can turn the lights back on at this point), use the gummed tape provided at the end of the roll to keep it from unravelling. When you develop the film, you'll have to separate the paper backing from the film itself (which will happen fairly naturally anyway) and cut the end of the film off where it is taped to the paper backing (I'd suggest cutting the film with a pair of scissors rather than merely ripping it from the tape; the action of ripping the tape may generate small sparks of light).