Here's a quick list of Polaroid cameras separated into categories to
denote which battery type(s) they use. This may be of particular use
for those of you who may have a classic Polaroid folding pack camera,
as it's difficult to keep straight which battery type goes with which
camera models.
Here's what batteries are required by the Polaroid accessory flashguns for rollfilm cameras:
#200 two 'C' cells #201, #221 one 412 (22.5 volt) battery #202, #222, #240, #281 one 504 (15 volt) or 505 (22.5 volt) battery #250, etc. "Wink Lights" one 460 (45 volt) batteryIncidently, it appears that the 460 battery used by the Wink-Lights is no longer being made (thanks to Henry Cline for discovering this). However, if you're still really interested in using your Wink-Light, you could build a replacement battery pack out of five 9 volt rectangular batteries wired in series, though. Please see the Main FAQ for an important note about this.
The 100, 101, 102, 220, 225, 230, 240, 250, and 340 use one No. 531 (4.5 volt) alkaline battery.
The 103, 104, 125, 135, 210, 215, 315, 320, 330, 420, 430, 440, M60, and Countdown 70 all use one No. 532 (3 volt) alkaline battery. The 335, 350, 360, 450, M80, and Countdown 90 use two No. 532 batteries, one of which is used for the built-in electronic development timer (and which can be omitted if the development timer feature isn't needed or desired).
All the rigid plastic cameras and 'new style' folding pack cameras use two standard 'AA' cells. ...Well, except for the ('fixed' exposure) Big Shot, which doesn't use batteries at all.
Also, a visitor to this site has suggested www.photobattery.com as a source for both of these battery types. I see that they also have a number of other hard-to-find battery types of interest to vintage camera owners. [Note: I have no personal experience with photobattery.com as a customer, so this should not be taken as an endorsement of their products and/or services.]
A somewhat less expensive alternative
is to build a battery pack out of readily-available 'N' or 'AAA' cells.
3-volt lithium cells are tempting substitutes for the 3-volt 532
batteries, but be especially careful if you plan to solder anything to
them!
NOTE: DL123 cylindrical cells as used in many 35mm point-and-shoot
cameras seem to work pretty well as replacements-- in fact, they're
also exactly the same physical size as the No. 532 battery but without
the snap terminals. On a similar note, if you're trying to replace
a No. 531 battery, you might consider adapting a No. 523 battery as used
as a clock/CMOS battery in a number of older personal computers
(most notably the compact Apple Macintosh models up to the Mac Plus).
The 523 has the
same voltage and physical size as the 531, but lacks the snap terminals.
However, be advised that the No. 523 isn't all that easy to find either,
and costs about the same as a proper 531 replacement anyway.
One other thing: If your camera has the electronic development timer, you might be tempted to wire the two pairs of battery leads (one for the shutter and the one for the development timer) in parallel so that you can power both with just one 3 volt battery. Do not attempt this! Wiring both circuits together will create a partial short across the battery terminals.
The common #268 flashgun uses one 'AA' cell, although the very earliest ones were supposed to use a No. 531 4.5v battery instead. The less-common #280 flashgun (for the model 180) uses two 'AAA' cells. The #490 Focused Flash gun for the 400-series cameras also uses two 'AAA' cells.
The ProFlash electronic flash for the ProPack camera requires four 'AA' cells.
This is sometimes more of a puzzler than the previous question, actually. :-)
For the 850/900 rollfilm cameras, the mercury cell for the autoexposure system can be found behind a little metal flap on the back of the shutter housing. Just tuck a fingernail under the little tab and it'll tilt right out. See the illustration below.
The batteries for the various rollfilm accessory flashguns are pretty self-explanatory-- just remove the one or two visible screws, and you'll see the battery compartment.
For the 'classic' folding automatic packfilm cameras (except the Model 360), look at the back of the camera. See how the back hinges to load the film? Now look at the left side of the hinge, and you'll find that that side of the camera's back can be opened as well (look for a small indentation that you can hook your fingernail). An illustration is shown below.
For the #490 flashgun, look for the plastic screwhead inside the cavity where the Flashcube goes (look at the curved surface that would be behind the Flashcube). Using a small coin, turn the screwhead about 90 degrees counter-clockwise to unlock the back of the flashgun.
To change the batteries on the rigid plastic pack cameras (and the 'new-style' folding pack cameras), open the back of the camera. Look towards the shutter, and you'll see the two 'AA' cells-- one on the left and one on the right. There's a plastic tab which you can pull to lift out the battery compartment.
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